S. J. Dudley for NorWesCon NeoFan 1995 used by permission
YOUR FIRST COSTUME
Costumes are an exciting component of any convention. They add to the feel and atmosphere. Just walking around we see some very beautiful and detailed outfits being worn in the hallways of most cons. Many of these are artful creations we admire and usually would like for ourselves. The gifted just smile and say things like: "Oh I just put those eight thousand beads on while I was watching TV at night" and "Oh, this old thing? It was a costume I changed around a bit from a couple of years ago." or "This??? I just threw it together this morning." Leaving us awed and envious.
Though the results are both rewarding and enjoyable, putting a costume together for the first time can be a very exasperating and confusing business. Yet sooner or later most folks want to try.
I want a costume for the next convention. My T shirt imprinted with "This IS my costume" is getting more than a little old and I want to be one of the strange and potentially beautiful, festivity garbed too.
But I can't sew like a dress designer and I don't know a bugle bead from a leather awl. In fact, the sewing machine sits there glaring at me like some condescending alien intelligence. My mother, spouse, or housemate is too busy and wouldn't know who Flash Gordon was anyhow. So what do I do?
Well actually there are several options and we'll try to outline them for you here.
The first thing you need to know is that you don't need to know anything about sewing to create a costume. Although learning to use a sewing machine and follow a pattern isn't difficult, if you haven't had the time or need to before, less than three months before the convention isn't the time to start. If you seriously want to learn, then I recommend taking a beginner's class at one of your local fabric shops. These classes are inexpensive and you won't be the only one there who doesn't know what a bobbin is.
So let's start with some simple basics.
Your average Space Trader, Pirate, or Denizen of Sword and Sorcery isn't hard to put together once you know what you're looking for.
FOUNDATIONS
Just like in a building, where the foundation provides the support for whatever is built on top. In a costume, the foundations are the items of clothing you wear underneath the decorative portions of the outfit.
Solid color leotards or spandex pants and a turtle neck make good simple foundation. Your local dance or athletic shop is a good place to look for these basic items. If you want something less form fitting, try a basic black (or other dark solid color) jumpsuit.
If you haven't got much cash, then a plain black turtleneck and black pants will also work as a foundation.
Another good foundation is a pair of baggy pants. These can be tucked into boots for a pirate or Cossack look, tied at the ankle and worn with sandals for an Arabian Nights effect, or laced up the leg for a medieval costume.
These foundations provide the base for a lot of different looks.
PERSONALIZING AND ACCESSORIES
Your foundations can be jazzed up and made to serve several very different looks with a variety of accessories. A whole cast of characters can be created by adding scarves, belts, jewelry, vests, and hats.
Footwear changes the look of a costume dramatically too. Boots, tabi (Japanese) socks, slippers and sandals all give a different feel to the outfit.
The addition of a wig and/or gloves will give an even more exotic look.
WHERE TO LOOK AND WHAT TO BUY
Remember, most basic costumes can be constructed out of things you purchase from regular stores. So, guys, don't be afraid to try the Iarge sizes in the women's departments for things like satin pirate shirts, scarves, belts and jewelry. And gals, don't be afraid to check out the boys department for shoes, belts, hats, shirts and jackets. Scarves can be used as sashes, shawls, sarongs, veils or turbans.
Haunt your local thrift stores for unusual items. It's a good idea to make a regular routine of checking these a couple of times a month. if you find something interesting, buy It right then. If you wait and come back later, it will likely be gone. Another good source for costume items are import shops. Tibetan shirts, Afghani vests, or East Indian skirts and robes make great costume pieces.
Toy stores are a great place to find SciFi accessories too.
Speaking of toy stores, shop around at the conventions. You will usually find someone in the dealers room selling capes and tunics. These will help round out your wardrobe.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
This is a list of costume component groups and the look that each combination creates.
1) Baggy pants tucked into boots, tailored shirt and vest. Add a toy space blaster for a space trader or a sword for a sword world warrior.
2) Tunic Shirt over tight fitting pants with sash. Wear with boots for a space traveler or entertainer sandals for a pleasure slave.
3) Jumpsuit or Black turtleneck and pants with sash tied over shoulder: Great for a space warrior. Wear with tabi socks or boots.
4) Baggy pants tucked into boots, tank vest and sash: The classic pirate look for guys. Girls, wear spandex pants and tie the scarf as a sarong skirt.
5)Indian or Moroccan style robe, belt and long vest: Great for a wizard or sorcerer. Wear with slippers or sandals. add jewelry as appropriate. For a desert style look, leave the robe unbelted and wear a scarf around your head as either a veil for girls or secure with a length of cord burnoose style for guys.
Some Very Simple Do It Yourselfers:
Draping: Always drape over your foundations. Take a length of fabric, stand in front of a mirror and pin. One to two yard lengths make great cape like garments or short togas. 5 yards or longer for saris. Two to three yards for kilts, Egyptian skirts or sarongs.
Recycled Sheets Blankets and Bedspreads: Single or twin sized blankets make great tabards or ponchos. With a seam ripper or a small pair of scissors, remove the thread holding the binding onto the edges. Cut to suit (how long do you want it and how wide? A tabard goes from shoulder to shoulder, a poncho covers the arms at least to the elbow.) Then just cut a hole big enough for your head to go through. Sheets make great Roman and Greek style togas, kitins, and pallas (drapes.) Just drape and pin. Note, always use safety pins, never regular straight pins, and it's better to use diaper pins as these have an extra safety lock and won't come undone from movement or stick you at a bad time.
Changing for the better:
Sometimes a few minor changes can turn an outdated item of clothing into a great costume. Some styles of dresses can be turned into tunic shirts, coats or vests with ease. Great for a medieval look.
You can make dramatic changes just by shortening the length, opening down the front, and/or removing the sleeves. If you can sew on a button you can sew well enough to make these kinds of changes. Slightly more advanced would be changing the neckline from a rounded or scoop neck to a Vee or square neckline.
Put the dress on, stand in front of the mirror and mark the change with chalk. Then cut about a half inch to the inside of your chalk line, turn under and sew down. You my want to buy some IRON ON HEM TAPE to seal the edges and prevent them from raveling.
Old Skirts can be recycled as capes. Remove the waistband by carefully taking out the stitches, then take the stitches that hold the zipper in place out and open the seam all the way down. Now make some simple pleats to make what was the waistline small enough to be a neckline, hand stitch them into place. Turn the edge under and sew it down and use an iron on hem tape to seal the edge. Add a brooch to close the cape at the neck.
Old fur coats make great barbarian outfits. Remove the buttons, sleeves and collar. The sleeves can be worn as leggings, tied with leather thongs. The collar can be tacked together for a headband and the coat worn open or with a heavy belt as a vest.
Non Sewing Alternatives:
Using fusible tape and an iron: These are used to close edges of fabric so it won't ravel. Just follow the directions on the package and ALWAYS use a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric. An old pillowcase works the best.
Staples and duct tape: If you can't sew, a hem can be stapled into place, but don't use this on an area that is going to be in contact with your skin, like necklines or armholes. Duct tape will work better in these areas.
Using a hot glue gun. This works great for heavy canvas and leathers. Just turn the edges under and glue between the layers or overlap the edges for seams and glue between the layers. Allow plenty of time for the glue to set before wearing.
Remember, none of these methods form very strong bonds, and probably aren't a good idea for a costume you're planning to wear more than once or twice.
Make Up
Make up can make the costume. It is best to buy your own "convention makeup kit." Costume stores are your best source for stage type makeup, which will wear better and give you more options than buying "street" makeup. Never use someone else's makeup applicator. Always buy your own brushes, sponges and Q-Tips, and never let someone else use yours.
A basic kit will cost about $40 and will last a couple of years. It will include a base foundation, several cheek and eye colors, three or four lining pencils and lip color. Also purchase some neutral face powder to set your makeup once finished. This will help it not smudge and wear longer. These kits often come with instruction booklets, but your library will have much more detailed theatrical makeup books.
ALWAYS patch test any makeup you plan to buy first. Using the store tester display, rub a little of each kind in the inside of your arm. Leave it alone. If you notice any redness, soreness or severe itching wash the make up off with a mild soap and water and don't purchase that brand. Patch test another. if you have no reaction after 8 hours, the makeup is probably safe for you.
Although there is a lot more that can be said about this subject, most of the fun is in discovering things for yourself. Don't be afraid to experiment and have fun.
Asides and Misc. Stuff:
Churba Silvertongue offers a good suggestion about props in skit situations:
If the prop must do anything but sit or hang from you, make sure its so strong that if you met god in your travels, he would say "Bloody hell that's strong!"
Courtesy of the Klingon Diplomatic Corps - I.C.B.
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